Considering this is a blog about surfing and photography, you'd think I'd be posting more lately. I guess what I mean to say is that both have been relatively good in the last week or so. At least, they were great last week, but we'll have to see about what is to come. I surfed LM Sunday-Wednesday. Mon, Tues, Wed were epic...as in perfect waves and a couple handfuls of awesome rides. I took out my red board and was pleasantly surprised at how well it handles and how fast it was on those perfect 2-4 feet faces. Days like that make me want to give up on society and just surf all day long. Those four sessions were enough to satisfy me despite the messy big stuff that swell brought in on Thursday, pretty much wiping out an opportunity over the weekend. I'm hoping it'll disappear over the next couple days, or at least bring some clean, offshore conditions imitating last week, though maybe a touch bigger wouldn't hurt either
Speaking of surfing, and big waves, the book I am reading right now is brilliant and I recommend it to all who believe that surfing has in some way profoundly changed their lives. It's called West of Jesus, by Steven Kotler...though it has very little to do with Jesus. Loosely this is the story of a guy who chases a mythical legend about a surfer known as the Conductor, who is able to control the weather to produce surf, around the world. More specifically this is an in depth philosophical study of surfing's place in the mystical world..as a religion, as a transcendental experience, and as a form of rehabilitation. I'll write more about it later, and I'll be sure to include some quotes, cause there are definitely some good ones worthy of excerpt.
As far as photography goes...I ate my own words and purchased a small lighting kit I can travel with from Bart last week. It's perfect, the kind of thing I can set up anywhere and use. I tried it out at Aquatic Park on Thursday, where I photographed Kim and Kyle swimming in the Bay. While I have yet to examine the shots closely, I am pretty happy with how they turned out. I got some good portraits of them standing on the beach before entering the water and then later got a few of them swimming back into the park. It's funny how nothing is ever as predictable as you think. The image I had in my head of what the photos would look like was really nothing like how they turned out, but I'm pretty pleased nonetheless. I guess that's what makes a good photographer, the ability to improvise. I need to keep doing that, so I can get as much practice in as possible. I mean, the point of me shooting them was not because of the images I'd envisioned, it was because I wanted to capture what seemed like a good visual subject matter, and celebrate the fact that my good friend, who couldn't swim six months ago, is now free swimming in the bay! How crazy is that? I'll be sure to post a couple within the next few days, once I work the magic of photoshop on them. =)