It definitely feels like autumn. The water has gotten cold(er) again and surf has been decent as of late, though I haven't gotten out since Wednesday. I rode the MSF a few times over the last couple weeks. It's a lot of fun and it feels good to know that I can be that comfortable on it now. I guess the timing is right because I've never had much success on it--it's always just felt foreign compared to my other boards. I still haven't taken it out in stellar conditions yet but I'm certainly looking forward to it.
This week has been strange. Maybe it's the full moon. Maybe it's the changing seasons that can give me the impression that I feel stuck and it's a hard feeling to shake. Not stuck in the kind of way that I can't get out, but stuck in the way that society lets us get that way and most of the time it feels normal. I've got a lot right now, a lot to be grateful for. Most importantly friends and family and D...a good job doing what I want and lots of material possessions as well...a nice house to live in, a decent car, surfboards in the basement, and nice cameras with which to do my job with. Often I feel like I have all I could ever need. Othertimes I'm reminded that we live in a culture of want, and it's hard to battle off the influences which fuel it.
Surfing, being outside, traveling, listening to great music and having love all around me reminds me that consumerism isn't what life is about--that freedom can still exist within that. I'm forever struggling with my desire to choose experience over material, and to stay as close to my roots as possible when it comes to both surfing and my photography career as well.
I have no point really, it's just where my heads been at lately.
As if timing was perfect, Into the Wild was released this week and D and I saw a matinee yesterday. It's an incredible film, based on the book that changed my life when I read it 10 years ago as a crazy kid trying as hard as I could to get far far away from suburban Virginia. I highly recommend it to anyone who loves movies with a beautiful story and scenery to match. We can all learn something from this guy.
Off to work this evening and dreaming of good surf tomorrow.

D took this shot in Big Sur last spring. It's funny the way autumn can feel like fall, especially here in Northern California where the seasons only change so much.

It's kind of a long story as to why we didn't go out when the surf was this perfect. Sometimes watching is just as satisfying. Sometimes being with good friends on the beach is too. Sometimes there isn't an excuse for just not feeling like it. I've surfed at Salmon Creek only a handful of times. It can get big and challenging like Ocean Beach. My few experiences were eerie and left me with no desire to return. But this day was differant. It looked appealing. It looked mesmerizing. It also looked like it might look better from the shore.
I spent the weekend with the girls at an amazing house in Bodega Bay on Salmon Creek Beach. We vegged, drank wine, read our books, lounged in the hot tub and went for walks down the beach. On Sunday we took the long way down Highway 1 to Bolinas for a sunny leashless session on the outgoing tide. It was a reminder to relax, and a reminder to be grateful for the wonderful friends I have and the beautiful places I have access to.

Shelter Cove

I've been surfing in Pacifica for a few years now and never heard of this beach. Turns out, this secret pirate's-like cove was just over the hill from Lindy. K and I stumbled across it when we checked out a couple open houses up the hill in Pedro Point. Needless to say I've been preoccupied with the place since. The waves were smooth and glassy, rolling in over what looked like a cobble stone bottom. They looked pretty perfect. The houses below had an air of intimidation, and the real estate agent described the resident's as "hearty people" whose only access to their homes was a lengthy hike in. Huge waves in 1983 washed the rode out and it's never been replaced since. I get the impression that this is a locals only spot, or is it even surfed at all? Rumor has it a 15 foot great white named Pedro patrols the area.
After a bit of research I found this published bit of information on Shelter Cove and what turns out to be quite an interesting history.

Is it Autumn if the leaves stay the same?

Fall is here. I'm sure everyone's feeling it. This is unfortunately, my only photographic evidence I have from yesterday's surf session, which was fucking awesome. I forgot my camera, but lifted this from the webcam before I headed back to the beach after shooting there all morning (long story). I knew it was good. I guess I had no idea it was gonna be that fun. I was relieved I didn't get clobbered, and stoked I caught a handful of awesome chest-head high shoulders. Winds were howling offshore, the water was freezing, the tide was a crazy 6ft+ high...and it felt like the bay area fall surf season was up and running.
Followed it up with a Surfrider meeting and a couple beers and good food with new people. It was a day well spent. Skywalker Ranch today was pretty cool too.

SoCally Goodness

SoCal delivered. The waves were on the small side, but everything was warm and clean. With the exception of one asshole in Pismo--the lineups were full of friendly folks, with great advice, and who were down to share their waves. I'd have to say I could live there. I could picture it, though I'm not sure how my San Francisco dependant career would survive, or my relationship. It was great to get away. I can't wait until next time.

Bolinas served some stellar longboard waves yesterday. It was warm enough to be wetsuit free. Nothing like a long ride with plenty of time to mess around on the board. Kind of reminded me of Rincon or Malibu, but it really just can't compare.