In my daily internet obsession with all things surf and photography related, I came across a site which is both. He is bay area based (I love that) and his website is a pleasure to look at! Check it out:
www.browncannon3.com

Zen Slide.

Made the retreat-like trek to Bolinas today to escape the monster swell abusing the rest of the coast. It was fun, sunny and lining up pretty perfect with knee to chest high sets. Bolinas usually breaks one of two places, today it was breaking at neither, which was a pleasant surprise. I've been trying to work through a little mundanity I've felt in my surfing as of late. Today helped. The beach was full of the usual, the water was little on the crowded side, but it felt like another day in paradise.

In addition, I got one of the sweetest compliments I've ever gotten in the water, and it made my day. It was at the end of my session, I'd been out for three plus hours and was getting a little clumsy. As I paddled back out after a great long ride, an older gentlemen looked at me, smiled, and said, "that was really pretty." Sometimes getting a genuine compliment from someone you don't know can really put the cherry on the sundae.



Yesterday Kim and I surfed Santa Cruz. The surf was solid just about everywhere, a little on the bigger side of my comfort level, but these days I feel a little up for a challenge. Nonetheless, we made a poor choice as to where to paddle out (Cowells), and both of us paid for it and regretted it in our own ways. Once we got out I felt bored, a little irritated and a little grumpy that we'd ended up there, when everywhere else had looked so much better. The currant was exhausting and the pay off was small. The waves felt mushy and gutless. As I started to feel negative the crowd also filled in and my struggle increased. Note to self: the surf won't get any better with a bad mood. Often a better attitude can make even the crappiest of conditions ok. I think this applies to most things in life.

Perfect Santa Cruz goodies. First time back in the water in two weeks. Long waist-head high rights. Point surf juicy. It was an excellent day, minus the kelp yanking me off rides prematurely. Hard to complain about that. You'd almost think it was spring by the weather these last few. I know not to be deceived. Dreading the next storm, but loving the calm in between. This exposed tree is evidence of the beating the cliff took by the recent rains. More to come I'm sure.
But still, always another wave to look forward to.

Fuck the rain.

I know it's cliche to complain about the rain in Northern California. I know we need it. But, my god, will it ever end? I want to love the rain, but for me, rain is only loveable when it comes a couple times a week, not for weeks on end. I guess I suffer from seasonal affect disorder. Who doesn't, right? My mood drops in January. My relationships feel strained. My productivity level flatlines. I surf less. I gain weight. I feel cold all the time. It's my least favorite time of year. Unfortunately sometimes it taints fall as well... I begin to fear what I know is inevitably ahead.
So complaining aside. Things are ok. K and I surfed almost two weeks ago. It was a fabulous, pre storm session. Perfect offshores, cold rain and a small window of tide agreement. I caught a wave that was arguably one of the best I've caught in my surfing life yet. A head high, long, peeling right with perfect form.
I've been shooting a bit of stuff I like lately. Work is steady. I feel as inspired as I can hope to be with the current gray color pallette. I'm learning Spanish. Life lingers on.
Despite the rain.