Thursday, May 15, 2008

Surfing...I mean searching...for space in NYC

Spending a week in NYC for work. Can't say I'm thrilled with the crowds, concrete and lack of space here. But it has it's charms and the energy of the city is great. Toby and I have to share a room due to the low budget nature of this job. The first night we could only get a room with one bed and had to get a rollaway:

Then we got upgraded to a much better room with two beds and a fire escape balcony too!

Hoping to get to the Mollusk shop in Brooklyn if I can manage to get some free time. Needing a surf but having fun rolling with what life is offering too. Had a great, mellow session in Pleasure Point last weekend. Got some uber-slow weak rollers but still managed some noserides and laughs with a surfer I see at Linda Mar all the time. Always nice to meet the people you see regularly.
Not much else to add. Hoping that everyone out there is getting some great surf and sunshine. NYC makes me love California all the more.

Thursday, May 08, 2008

Big Sur 4


I've made the trip to Big Sur for the past four years, often twice a year. This year, we camped at a different spot, a walk-in campground. The break lies a mile from the parking lot, and both the beach and the camp spots are centered in a canyon that bounces the NW onshore wind around and sends it screaming offshore into a peeling right point break nestled in a rocky cove at a rivermouth. It's pretty amazing. Most of the time. I watched my surfboard fly 25 feet in the air and 25 yards down the rock covered beach. Luckily, the board was ina board bag and only had a minor ding that didn't even break the outer glass job.

I haven't come close to understanding that wave, or really feeling in tune with it at all, but I do feel a great deal of excitement and awe of the whole place. I'm still eager to return. I left feeling rejuvenated and in love all over again. Dave and I stayed on an extra night and met some kids living at the campground who reminded me of what the wonders of being a 19 year old hippy in California is like...and let me say, it's a beautiful thing.