"The lonely cliffs, the lonely wind, the lonely sea I hide within" -Three Sails to the Wind
photo by Robin
I haven't given up on this blog. I've just taken a break. Like most things in life, it's good to get away from time to time. I'd like to start again, because my absence hasn't marked any lack of surf or stoke for me, but more the lack of desire to reflect on it publicly I guess. Since it seems that introspection and personal struggle is the mood that is marking just about everyone i know's life these days, I'll spare the details. Instead I'll take this opportunity to mark the good things I remember about 2008.
January:
Watching the Mavericks surf contest from a boat anchored at the break.
February
A couple weeks of perfect sandbar at Bolinas.
March
Camping in Death Valley. I'll never forget the unexpected peace I found in the desert. The laughter and view from the passenger seat of my car as we logged 1200 miles on it was pretty awesome too.
April
Big Sur 4. Challenging conditions, but amazing amounts of beauty and some challenging surf too.
May
Two weeks in New York City in a tiny shared hotel room. It's amazing how New York can put things in perspective in terms of what you miss and appreciate about the life you left behind.
July
A fun farewell bbq at the house on 47th St.
A couple of great sessions in Santa Cruz.
August
A trip to Montana for work. Words can't describe how beautiful it is there.
A freak opportunity to spend three days camping at Hollister Ranch.
September
A four day road trip in Minnesota along Lake Superior.
October
The fall surf season starts with a bang. What follows for me is more fun surf sessions than I can count on three hands in bigger surf and on smaller boards than I've ever ridden.
November
A super successful and reassuring personal portfolio trip to New York.
A stellar birthday evening with friends and family.
December
So far so good. A handful of great surf sessions, some fun art shows and a trip to New Orleans and Florida next week.
