Summer love.

Small surf lately.

To ail the slowness of photography work this summer, I got a job teaching surf lessons in Pacifica. Getting paid to be in the ocean is pretty incredible. I was reminded of how difficult it is to learn, of how determined I became to get good at it, to conquer the fear and the frustration and get to the part where I experience the joy of being out there and actually riding waves. So glad I put the work in.

A few weeks ago I finally got my shit together to take my friend up on her offer to teach me to climb at the climbing gym I've belonged to for longer than I can remember. Rock climbing has been one of those things I've longed to learn how to do. I've always been keen on bouldering but anything that's involved any height has left a lump in my throat at the very thought. I'm afraid of heights-on an instinctual level...I have a physical reaction when I'm faced with them. I have to say, once I got going though, that I think I kind of love it. Not in the same way I love the ocean, but maybe I am having the same respect for the challenge. I'm terrible and awkward at it and it scares the crap out of me, but now I want to do it until I no longer feel like that.

Still working on Plastiki for Nat Geo and have had a couple other bits of photography work here and there. Honestly, the industry is suffering greatly right now and no one I know is working that much. It sucks but also feels like an oppurtunity to enjoy my free time, live simply and be outside as much as humanly possible. My photo of chef Bryant Terry is in this month's issue of Yoga Journal.

No matter what people say, the weather has been gorgeous and the sun is definitely present at Ocean Beach, now if only a swell could follow suit.

Sometimes all it takes is getting away. Spent the weekend on the Yuba river in Tahoe National forest in Washington, CA. It reminded me of southwestern VA... perfect and green and full of unlikely characters. Another place to add to my list to come back to alone and with the time to focus on photographing it.

Moving tomorrow. Hard not to see it for what it is. A new chapter...and pretty exciting.

Yesterday was full of surprises. I woke up on the wrong side of the bed. Overwhelmed with packing and cabin fever, I made it to yoga and told myself if it didn't rid me of the foul mood I was in I'd head West. Driving down the coast chasing surf always does it for me. Cheers me up, brings me peace of mind. Whatever I need, I can usually get it from the woods or the ocean. I didn't have high expectations, but when I came upon this spot I was pleasantly surprised to find the SW wrapping almost to perfection. I caught a dozen waves despite the crowded lineup and headed back up the coast happy as a clam.

On my way home I got an invite to camp in Redwood park. Yoga, surf and sleeping in a tent--all in one day. Life is good.

Notice

by Steve Kowit

This evening, the sturdy Levi's
I wore every day for over a year
& which seemed to the end
in perfect condition,
suddenly tore.
How or why I don't know,
but there it was: a big rip at the crotch.
A month ago my friend Nick
walked off a racquetball court,
showered,
got into this street clothes,
& halfway home collapsed & died.
Take heed, you who read this,
& drop to your knees now & again
like the poet Christopher Smart,
& kiss the earth & be joyful,
& make much of your time,
& be kindly to everyone,
even to those who do not deserve it.
For although you may not believe
it will happen,
you too will one day be gone,
I, whose Levi's ripped at the crotch
for no reason,
assure you that such is the case.
Pass it on.

180 South

Conquerors of the Useless, That's What We Were. -Yvon Chouinard

I'm so excited to see this movie. Movies like this are the reason I could move into filmmaking. The opportunities to be inspired and create inspiration are endless.

Off to the Ocean Film Fest tonight.

Moving to Fog City.

There have been a handful of wonderful moments over the last week when I fell in love with CA for the up-teenth millionth time. The kind of love where you feel giddy and drunk and like your heart is bursting out of your chest with excitement. Last Wednesday I surfed Montara for the first time in ages during the magic hour when everything you photograph looks amazing. Oddly enough I was camera-less. Montara is one of the few beaches in the area with white, thick, grainy sand and consistently blue water. I paddled out there again today with a few good friends, a bunch of sunshine and we all had a blast. Sometimes I am overwhelmed by feeling grateful for how wonderful my friends are. Friday night Sarah and I surfed perfect Pleasure Point. I was reminded of some of the challenges the sport can offer (psychologically), but thrilled at theblissful feeling of standing on the nose of my longboard and gliding down the line of a shoulder high point wave. I'm not sure it gets any better than that. Although camping last weekend in the redwoods with no surf actually comes pretty close.

Sometimes it seems like the adventures here are endless.

This month marks the anniversary of a huge change that took place in my life last year and will be the anniversary of another next year. I'm moving to the fog. Literally. The economy has put a decent strain on my business over the last few months and I've come to realize my life isn't really headed in the direction I want it to if I stay where I am, paying what I'm paying to live in this beautiful apartment and commute to the ocean as often as I do. An opportunity opened up to live out by Ocean Beach in a cheap shared house for a few months so I'm on it!

I will be living three blocks from the ocean for the first time in my life.

Love the work of Patrick Trefz! This event should be fun! Free beer, music, art and visuals and the 'Thread' book available for sale. Stoked!