More Mavericks.

The last week has been jammed packed with tasty surf goodness. I've posted a couple shots from the Maverick's contest. I'll spare you the rest, because to some extent, the photos all look more or less the same. Photos of a surfer riding down the face of a huge wave can only vary so much when taken from one vantage point. It was an amazing experience. I was surprised by how much smaller and more manageable the wave itself looked up close--not that I'd ever attempt to be out there. I was also surprised by the zoo of spectators and press. Boats, jets skis, dingys. There were probably 150 people watching the contest from the water. What can I say, I've never been to a surf contest, I was taken aback. Contests just have a different feel I guess. It takes me a while to wrap my head around surfing as a spectacle of that size. It some ways it sickens me, but no disrespect. I was stoked to hear the winner decided to split up the prize money with his fellow heat members. So cool.

That evening was the Ether signing with Kirk Gee, from Confasos Press and Andrew Kidman. I had a great time meeting folks and checking out the book. Good conversation, mellow tunes. The guys at Aqua have it dialed--they seem to be truly nice people. Always helpful, never grumpy. The book is really something special. Inspiring and beautiful, and obviously produced with the kind of love and soulful passion I can only hope to put into all of my future projects.

Following last weekend, I've gotten five surf sessions in. Santa Cruz was a pleasant treat and as always I vowed to return sooner than later. Today we got a couple friends in the water for a learning session. It's always interesting to be reminded of how far I've come and the process it really takes to get there. It's a life changing one. Humbling, frustrating and forever teaching. We drove home at dusk and the side of Mt Tam was bathed in gorgeous light. It was breathtakingly cold and I cursed myself for being a lazy photographer who forgot her camera. Next time. I feel lucky to be able to say that.

Yeah.

It comes with a price.

The last time I surfed was over a week ago. K and I paddled out in what looked like easy, fun conditions, but proved to a bit more challenging than usual. When we waded into the surf, boards in hand, the howling wind practically blew us out to the lineup. I got there with dry hair, barely out of breath, which was a little deceptive. Upon quick observation, I also realized the 20 knot offshores would blow us out to sea if we didn't keep moving against the current. I put my mind to paddling, to let my blood warm up and fight the cold water and wind, to find a good position (out of the way of the dumping closeouts on the outside bar but still in the sweet spot to catch some of the clean lines on the inside). It was tricky, I took a couple to the head, took the liberty of ditching my board...because there were no other surfers around...and got worked in ways I haven't got worked in a long time. It was exhillerating. It was uncomfortable. It was the type of minor adrenaline rush I needed. I can't say I had much success. I caught a couple of fast rides that reminded me what those can feel like. I tried to stay persistent, but received no encouragement, underwater or above.

It's hard to say what really draws the line in terms of conditions for me these days. I have welcomed a lot of easy sessions as of late...too easy, too infrequent. I've been surfing in my mind mostly. Watching my favorite surf videos, pouring over books and magazines and beautiful boards. Accepting the level of patience that winter surfing forces you to have here in Norcal. Longboarding in Bolinas is a nice safe haven when the swell is large and the winds are onshore in SF, but it's been a while since I've really put my skills to the test. I tell myself that my daily exercise routine prepares me for days like that week, so I've been focusing on that as much as I can...the ability to keep moving, to count on my stamina, and to put in the work it takes to improve. Surfing can come with a price, that's for damn sure. It's uncomfortable, but sometimes that gives me a kind of balance I've been searching for.

Other times, I'm happy to be a spectator... like tomorrow! The 2008 Maverick's contest is ON. K and I will be front and center on a boat (EEEK!) and I'll be taking photos galore. Check back for the goods.

Best of.

I don't usually adhere to making "best of" lists at the end of the year, but I've found some pretty entertaining and inspiring as of late. So here's a go at my own personal best of list (in regards to surfing) and a year in review to follow.

Top 3 most favorite blogs to check daily:
(in no particular order)
1. 70percent.org
2. Wine and Woodsmoke
3. Pushingtide

Top 3 most favorite surf flicks:
(in no particular order)
1. Thread
2. Glass Love
3. Shelter

Top 3 most desired surfboards:
(in no particular order)
1. 6'2 old school fish. Shaped by Larry Mabile, Rich Pavel, Chris Christenson or Brian Hilbers.
2. 9'6-9'8 Single fin noserider shaped by Michel Junod, Bob Miller, Brian Hilbers or Dano
3. 7'-7'6 Speed egg with either a bonzer setup, shaped by Mandala, Cambell Brothers

Top 3 most favorite surf shops:
(in no particular order)
1. Mollusk SF
2. Aqua SF
3. Longboard Grotto was pretty cool too...

Top 3 most desired surf trips
(in no particular order)
1. New Zealand
2. Costa Rica Part 2
3. Australia Part 2

Top 3 Best surf sessions this year:
1. Andrew Molera in April
2. Rincon in late August
3. Linda Mar in early September

Year in Review.

January

Australia: Perfect rolling right point breaks, pristine (though crowded) beaches. Longboard stylee and super friendly lineups. By far the best trip I've take so far, and I still feel like I only saw a tiny bit of what this great country has to offer.

February

Surf was damn good last February. One particular session comes to min--surfing the south end with a handful of longboarders. Waves were about head high and closing out everywhere else down the beach. It was stormy, cold but perfect at boatdocks. There was this girl out, who I see surfing LM from time to time. She rides a green board and is always barefoot with no leash. She's not a mesmerizingly beautiful girl, but when she's surfing, her style makes her look like a rock star or something. Something about watching her surf insprires me to know end.

March

This is definitely the session that comes to mind. Brian and I missioned it to Pleasure Point one morning. Waves were in great shape. Brian suggested paddling out to the point, casually suggesting it looked bigger and more fun. We argued about the best way to paddle out, both heading in separate directions. He was right, I took the long rout. Out there I realiezed I was out of my element a bit. The crowd was on the small side, but aggressive and talented at that. I was the only woman and though I was given a chance at some of the smaller sets, I just couldn't get it together. It was an impressive day and I left the water feeling like a chicken and like I'd missed out on a wonderful opportunity.

April

Big Sur. Such an epic trip. Cold air, warm sunshine (when it blessed us with it's presence), and a solid day of surf at Andrew Molera.

May

May marked the beginning of summertime (i.e. small surf) and not much else. Lazy days, gliding at bolinas, good friends and laying out in the sun.

June

The move. D and I make the move to co-habitation. It's a big step and a turning point. So much to be grateful here for in terms of our relationship and the nicest house I've lived in at that!

July

Costa Rica. The second country I am to fall in love with this past year. Warm water, sticky sunsets and challenging surf. I got more out of this trip then I'll ever imagine and I can't wait to go back.

August

So-Cal Road trip. Epic surf spots visited: Pismo, Leadbetter, Rincon, Malibu, Cardiff, PB. Great sessions in clean, though small, summer conditions. Nighttime skinny dipping, laughter, great food and friends.

September

September Sessions. An epic surf on an early cold fall day. A weekend retreat at Salmon Creek. The discovery of a secret cove (that I can't surf!)right next door to my home break. Fall magic.

October

Virginia. A visit home with Dave. My first nasty cold of the season. Sticky southern heat, sightseeing, family fun, and a reminder that as much as I love my family, California is my home now.

November

This month was one of the hardest of my life. The oil spill marked the beginning. It was tragic and the experience of scooping up oil in the rain at Ocean Beach will forever be imprinted in my mind as the first of two of the most heartbreaking days of my life.
photo by Robin
The second was the death of a close family friend. This photo was taken at the memorial before a cleansing dip in the ocean was shared by many. The sadness that this death brought to so many close to me still echoes into 2008. She will be missed dearly.

December

Pensacola, FL. Sometimes my grandma's house feels like the closest thing to home (away from home). I have yet to surf here. Last two years I had no board. This year I had a spring suit and the air was a frigid forty degree and the water calling for a fullsuit. The wayes are sloppy, windswell, waist high on a good day. In less you count hurricane surf, which I have never had the pleasure of encountering. It was a good trip. I have an intense family, I won't deny it. I appreciate them a lot, but often feel that our strong personalities overpower each other at times.