‎"The first time you get a ride on a surf board and you are being propelled along by a wave, it’s probably as close as humans can get to being able to fly like a bird." Gerry Lopez

I'm in Sayulita, Mexico teaching surf for a while. Can it get much better? California, we may be on the outs--you may have pushed it too far this time, we might be over.

RIP Andy Irons.